The Sound of Our Patron Saint
As the road to San Fedele d’Intelvi rises sharply from the village of Argegno along Lake Como’s western shore, the view back to the lake from the first switch back is dominated by the town church steeple. The bell tower mimics the style of late 17th century architecture depicting the churches of Sacro Monte, a pilgrimage heritage that denotes pathways from lakeside and villages into the mountains all across Lombardy and Piedmont. Time your approach right, and the bells will announce the commencement of the eight kilometer ascent of the Passo di San Fedele d’Intelvi. There is a church, about four kilometers along in Cerano, tucked into the hillside, its bells interrupting the silence that spans between Lake Como and Lake Lugano, an archaic but accurate method denoting the passing of time, the budding of trees, and the dying of leaves. This journey can be repeated across Lombardy, a journey of solitude punctuated by the hourly tolling of church bells, a reminder of the physical and mental progress of a personal crusade, a soliloquy counting down the remaining hours of daylight, and the remainder of the cycling season. Go to Full Article
